When Sunscreen Stops Working—and How to Choose a Better One
- Barbara Johnson, MD
- May 21
- 5 min read
Summer’s back—and so is that half-used bottle of sunscreen rolling around in your beach bag. But before you slather it on, ask yourself: Is it still doing its job? With rising UV indexes and earlier heatwaves in 2025, your sunscreen’s strength matters more than ever. Unfortunately, many products break down long before their expiration date, especially if they’ve been exposed to heat, light, or frequent use.
Whether you're hitting the beach or just walking the dog, using expired or unstable sunscreen can leave your skin vulnerable to damage. Here's what you need to know about when to toss old sunscreen, why mineral options are the safer bet, and how to make clean, organic formulas easier to use.

New summer, new sunscreen?
While the FDA still requires sunscreens to maintain their original strength for at least three years, studies and dermatologists agree: don’t rely on old sunscreen. Even if the expiration date hasn’t hit yet, real-world conditions often degrade sunscreens much faster. Just like you wouldn’t use expired medicine, expired sunscreen can’t be trusted to protect your skin.
That’s because sunscreen is technically an over-the-counter drug. Once it's expired or improperly stored, it's not just less effective—it could leave you vulnerable to UVA and UVB damage, increasing your risk of sunburn and long-term skin damage.
Chemical sunscreens containing oxybenzone or avobenzone are especially unstable. These ingredients tend to oxidize over time, weakening their UV-filtering properties. While mineral (organic) sunscreens don’t oxidize in the same way, their active ingredients—like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide—can still break down over time, making them less potent.
Heat and sunlight can speed up this degradation. According to FDA recommendations, sunscreen should be kept in a cool, dark place. So, that bottle you left in your hot car or tossed in your beach bag last August? It may not be safe to use anymore. Repeatedly opening the bottle or using dirty hands can also introduce bacteria, which may lead to breakouts or skin irritation. Dermatologists now suggest replacing sunscreen every couple of months if it’s being regularly exposed to heat, light, or frequent use.
How to tell if your sunscreen’s expired in 2025
Expiration dates still matter, but they’re not the whole story. Even if your sunscreen says it’s good until 2026, that doesn’t guarantee effectiveness. Look for:
Separation of the lotion or a watery consistency
Changes in color or a rancid smell
A grainy texture
Preservative breakdown, which may cause irritation
If you notice any of the above, toss it—your skin’s health isn’t worth the risk.
Organic sunscreen 101:
Mineral or "organic" sunscreens remain the gold standard for clean, effective sun protection. Unlike chemical filters, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide work by physically blocking UVA and UVB rays. (Note: zinc protects against both UVA and UVB, while titanium dioxide is mostly UVB.)
Chemical sunscreens, on the other hand, absorb and convert UV rays before your skin can be harmed. But they often contain fragrances, parabens, phthalates, and ethoxylated ingredients—all of which raise red flags in current research.
Here’s what to watch out for in 2025:
Oxybenzone and octinoxate: These are endocrine disruptors—they can mimic estrogen in the body and affect hormone balance.
Methylisothiazolinone: A known skin allergen and potential neurotoxin.
Retinyl palmitate: While once popular for anti-aging, it may actually accelerate skin damage when exposed to sunlight.
PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid): Largely phased out, but still appears in some formulas and can trigger allergic reactions.
There’s also concern about nanoparticles used in some mineral sunscreens. Some studies suggest these tiny particles may be absorbed by skin cells and, when heated by the sun, could increase oxidative stress. Look for products labeled “non-nano” to avoid this issue.
On a global level, ingredients like oxybenzone have caused widespread damage to coral reefs and are now banned in Hawaii, Palau, and parts of Mexico. Choosing reef-safe sunscreen isn't just good for you—it’s good for the planet.
Hacking your organic sunscreen:
Let’s be honest—organic sunscreen can feel chalky, thick, and hard to spread. But don’t give up. One simple fix is to blend in a few drops of organic oils. In 2025, more people are using oils like:
Safflower
Argan
Rosehip
Prickly pear
Pumpkin seed
These oils can improve texture and help the sunscreen blend more easily into your skin. Bonus: Rosehip seed oil has been shown to reduce the appearance of sun damage over time.
What to look for in sunscreen this year:
Minimal ingredients: Choose products with non-nano zinc oxide or titanium dioxide only. Skip anything with parabens, phthalates, fragrance, or essential oils (which oxidize in sunlight).
SPF 30 sweet spot: SPF 30 blocks about 97% of UVB rays. Higher SPFs offer minimal added benefit but often include more synthetic chemicals.
Certified organic or reef-safe: Look for “reef-safe,” “non-nano,” “broad-spectrum,” and “organic” labels. These ensure safer ingredients for your skin and the environment.
Your skin is your largest organ—and it absorbs what you put on it. With heatwaves becoming more common and UV indexes rising earlier in the year, 2025 is the year to invest in a clean, safe, and effective sunscreen. Toss that crusty bottle from last summer and start fresh—your skin will thank you.
Our favorite sunscreens:
Below is a list of our favorite sunscreens:
Babo Botanicals**

This sunscreen is hypoallergenic, reef-safe, and non-greasy, with non-nano UVB/UVA protection. This sunscreen lasts up to 80 minutes in water.
Dairy-Free
Cruelty-Free
Dye- and Color Additive-Free
Fragrance-Free
Hypoallergenic
Paraben-Free
Peanut-Free
Phthalate-Free
Preservative-Free
SLS-Free
Soy-Free
Goddess Garden**

This organic sunscreen is easily applied with its air-powered spray with no harsh chemical propellants. The formula is biodegradable and reef-safe!
Gluten-Free
Vegetarian
Biodegradable
Cruelty-Free
Recyclable
Alcohol-Free
Essential Oils
Non-GMO
Paraben-Free
Pesticide-Free
Phthalate-Free
Badger**

This organic sunscreen lip-balm is perfect to wear year-round. It contains a moisturizing base and uncoated clear zinc oxide- which won't turn your lips white.
Organic
Paraben-free
Phthalate-free
Fragrance-free
Vegetarian
Cruelty-Free
Gluten-Free
Pesticide-Free
Family-Owned Business
Supports Charity
Non-GMO
Mad Hippie

This sunscreen is perfect for daily use. With red-raspberry extract, it will hydrate and soothe the skin while the zinc protects you from the UVA/UVB rays. It also contains carrot seed and avocado oil which help to make the sunscreen silky smooth.
Organic
Paraben-free
Phthalate-free
Fragrance-free
Vegetarian
Cruelty-Free
No synthetic color
Gluten-Free
GMO-free
BPA free packaging
Pesticide-Free
Products with an asterisk can be purchased through Thrive, an online market with high-quality, organic, and sustainable products. If you use our thrive link to create an account, you can receive 25% off your first order!
The importance of keeping your skin healthy and protected through summer cannot be overstated. Beyond sunscreen, the best thing you can do to protect your skin is to use Heliocare! Several studies have gone so far as to suggest Heliocare is nearly as effective as other photoprotective agents like sunscreen, clothing, and seeking shade
Heliocare will protect your skin from further sun damage and repair skin damage. If you would like to learn more or purchase Heliocare, please contact us!
To learn more about JCH or to make an appointment, click here to contact us! If you have any more questions about your path to optimal health, email our office at thejohnsoncenter@gmail.com or call 276-235-3205.
The Johnson Center for Health services patients in-person in our Blacksburg and Virginia Beach / Norfolk locations. We also offer telemedicine for residents of Virginia and North Carolina!
Comments